On the sun-kissed coastline of West Maui where the waves meet the land and the trade winds carry the whispers of history, there grows a tree that holds more than just fruit—it holds a story. The breadfruit tree, or ‘ulu, is a symbol of life, resilience, and cultural memory in Hawai‘i, and perhaps nowhere is this more true than in Lahaina, the beloved town once known as Lele.
For centuries, ‘ulu has nourished families, shaded generations, and rooted itself deeply into the stories and soil of West Maui. Its wide green leaves and generous fruit have offered not only sustenance, but shelter, medicine, and meaning. Today, in the wake of hardship, this remarkable tree is making its quiet return, restoring not just the landscape but the spirit of a community.
According to Hawaiian legend, the story of ‘ulu begins with a sacrifice. When a devastating famine swept across the land, the god Kū, who had taken human form, offered himself to save his family. He sank into the earth, and from that place of devotion, the first ‘ulu tree grew. Other stories speak of fishermen guided by the god Kāne who discovered the tree in an underwater world, or a daring boy who climbed a tree to Tahiti and returned with ‘ulu for his people.
These myths aren’t just folklore; they’re reminders of how deeply ‘ulu is tied to survival, generosity, and connection. In Hawaiian culture, plants are seen not just as resources, but as ancestors. Like kalo (taro), which represents the first-born child of the gods and the root of the Hawaiian people, ‘ulu, too, is seen as a living relative.
Long before Lahaina became a whaling port or tourist destination, it was a thriving Hawaiian center called Lele, a name remembered in the poetic phrase “Lahaina, i ka malu ‘ulu o Lele”, meaning “Lahaina, in the shade of the breadfruit trees of Lele.” Historical land records from the 1800s mention flourishing ‘ulu groves across Lahaina. So significant was this tree that another common saying described the town as a great house beneath the shade of the breadfruit: “Hālau Lahaina, malu i ka ‘ulu.”
From Launiupoko to Wahikuli, West Maui was once shaded by thriving groves that cooled the land and fed its people. In many ways, the shade of the ‘ulu tree was the shade of home.
On August 8, 2023, Lahaina faced one of its darkest days. Wildfires tore through historic neighborhoods, devastating families, homes, and landmarks, including many of the ancient ‘ulu trees that had stood for over 150 years. But even in the ashes, something remarkable survived.
In the months following the fires, a team of cultural practitioners, scientists, and community organizations, including the University of Hawai‘i, Nā ‘Aikāne o Maui, and the Lahaina Restoration Foundation, was granted access to the burn zone. There, they carefully collected root segments from the few ‘ulu trees that still clung to life. These fragments were then transported to a greenhouse in Hilo, where a quiet miracle began to unfold.
Under the care of Dr. Noa Kekuewa Lincoln and his team at the UH College of Tropical Agriculture, these roots began to sprout. By the two-year anniversary of the fire, it’s estimated that 50 new trees will be ready to return to Lahaina, reminiscent of what was lost, yet symbols for what’s to come.
These ‘ulu trees aren’t for sale. They’re not for profit. They’re going back to the land they came from to be planted in yards, school gardens, and community spaces across West Maui. In time, they will shade new stories and offer fruit to new generations. But their return means more than greenery. It represents resilience, restoration, and the enduring bond between people and place.
As we look to the future, we are reminded that even after the harshest season, life returns. From a single root, a forest can grow. From a simple act of planting, a legacy can be restored.
BONUS
Beyond its cultural symbolism, ‘ulu has always been cherished for its rich nutritional value and versatility in the kitchen. Traditionally, one of the most revered ways to enjoy ‘ulu was Pūlehu ‘Ulu—breadfruit roasted over an open fire. A mature fruit, just short of ripeness, would be placed directly in the flames and rotated every few minutes until its skin became blackened and crisp. Once peeled while still hot, the soft, doughy flesh would be served simply with a citrus or coconut milk sauce, offering a warm, earthy bite.
Breadfruit’s versatility allows it to be enjoyed at various stages of ripeness. When young, its firm texture resembles artichoke hearts, making it ideal for pickling or tossing into stir-fries. As it matures, it becomes more like a potato—perfect for boiling, baking, or frying. When fully ripe, it takes on a subtle sweetness reminiscent of banana, pineapple, and sweet potato and can be eaten raw or added to baked goods and desserts.
Modern chefs and home cooks alike are embracing ‘ulu’s potential with creativity and flair. One contemporary favorite is the ‘Ai ‘Ulu salad, a fresh and satisfying dish that combines cubed, steamed ‘ulu with crisp apples, celery, herbs, and a tangy mustard-mayo dressing. A delightful Hawaiian twist on the classic potato salad.
In more indulgent settings, ‘ulu flour has found its way into local bakeries, used in malasadas, Hawai‘i’s beloved fried dough treats. When paired with cinnamon sugar and hints of monk fruit sweetener, the result is a lightly sweet, chewy bite that bridges the old and the new.
And for the plant-based crowd, dishes like pineapple glazed ‘ulu with tofu and bok choy bring island flavors to the forefront. Cooked with tamari, sesame, and maple, the breadfruit is pan-seared to perfection and tossed with hearty tofu and crisp greens, creating a vibrant entrée that celebrates sustainability, health, and local agriculture.